DEATH VALLEY

Death Valley doesn’t sound like a very inviting place. It is one of the hottest places in the world. The highest temperature ever recorded in there was 134 degrees Fahrenheit. That is the highest ever recorded in the Western Hemisphere. And that was in the shade! Death Valley in California covers nearly 3,000 square miles. Approximately 555 square miles are below the surface of the sea. One point is 282 feet below sea level—the lowest point of the Western Hemisphere. In Death Valley, pioneers and explorers faced death from thirst and the searing heat. Yet despite its name and bad reputation, Death Valley is not just an empty wildness of sand and rock. It is a place of spectacular scenic beauty and home to plants, animals, and even humans.

In 1849 a small group of pioneers struggled for three months to get across the rough land. They suffered great hardships as they and their wagons traveled across the salt flats in the baking sun. They run out of food and had to eat oxen and leave their possessions behind. They run out of water and became so thirsty they could not swallow the meat. They found a lake and fell on their knees, only to discover it was heavily salted. Finally, week and reduced to almost skeletons, they came upon to a spring of fresh water and their lives were saved. When they finally reached the mountains on the other side, they slowly climbed up the rocky slopes. One of them looked back and said, “Goodbye, Death Valley.” That has been its name ever since.

Death Valley is the driest place in North America. Yet far from being dead, it is alive with plants and animals. They have adapted with this harsh region. In the salt flats on the valley floor, there are no plants to be seen. But near the edge, there are grasses. Farther away, there are some bushes and cactus. On higher ground there are shrubs and shrub-like trees. Finally, high on the mountainside, there are pine trees.

What is not visible are the seeds lodged in the soil, waiting for rain. When it does come, a brilliant display of flowers carpets the once barren flatlands. Even the cactus blossoms. It is the most common of all desert plants. As the water dries up and summer nears, the flowers die. But first they produce seeds that will wait for the rains of another year.

At noon on a summer day, Death Valley looks truly devoid of wildlife. But in reality, there are 55 species of mammals, 32 kinds of birds, 36 kinds of reptiles, and 3 kinds of amphibians. During the day, many seek shelters under rocks and in burrows. As night approaches, however, the land cools. The desert becomes a center of animal activity. Owls hunt for mice. Bats gather insects as they fly. The little kit fox is out looking for food, accompanied by snakes, hawks, coyotes, and bobcats. Many of these animals, like the desert plants, have adapted to the dry desert. They use water very efficiently. They can often survive on water supplies that would leave similar animals elsewhere dying of thirst.

Humans have also learned how to survive in this land. Little is known about the first people, the lake Mohave people, except that they hunted there 9,000 years ago. From 5,000 to 2,000 years ago, the Mesquite Flat people inhabited the region. Then the Saratoga people came. Finally, about 1,000 years ago, the earliest of the Shoshone natives moved in. To this day, a few Shoshone families live the winter months in the desert.

The natives knew where every hidden spring was. They also knew the habits of the desert animals, which they hunted. The natives, and later even the prospectors, ate every imaginable desert animals. They ate everything from the bighorn sheep to snakes, rats and lizards. They were often on the edge of starvation. In autumn they gathers nuts from the pine trees. Other foods they ate included roots, cactus plants, leaves and sometimes insects.

The early prospectors didn’t know the desert as well as the natives. Many died looking for gold and silver in Death Valley. Others did find the precious metals. Then a “boomtown” was born. First it consisted miners living in the tents. Then permanent buildings were built. But when the mine failed, the town that built up around it did too. Today the remains of these “ghost towns” are scattered about Death Valley. They have names like Skidoo, Panamint City, Chloride City, and Greenwater.

Going to Death Valley once means danger, hardship, and even death. Today, visitors can drive there in air-conditioned comfort. They can stay in hotels. They don’t have to worry about dying of hunger or thirst. They can look upon the hills, canyons, and cactus with appreciation rather than fear. They can admire the beauty of this strange land. They can leave with happy memories.